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Price: $51.89
Brand: Stanley
Guillotine adjusts endwise with knurled screw. 6 inches desiderate by 1-3/8-inch cutter width. cutter angle 12 degree/easy to woolly edge grain. mouth adjustment for coarse or haughty lofty work. finger grips on side.
Reviews:
 4 / 5
For the money, i don't trow you can go wrong... is it a lie-nielsen, ahhh, nope... could i buy 5 of these for 1 lie-nielsen, ahhh, yep... i possess a few old stanley planes (from ebay) that i shut up tuned and have an excellent veritas low angularity jack that came ready to use square out of the box (except for the blade). i say this because i'm somewhat familiar with the performance of some planes. i don't shut up a high-end lie-nielsen block plane to compare this go aloft with but here's what i perceive the cons and pros would be in permilage to a more solid plane: cons: wedge locking mechanism is somewhat sloppy blade is slapdash (as expected) - if using a softwood, it's worthy of good enough. if planing regularly on hardwood, seemingly need a quality replacement blade (hock, lie-nielsen). one needs flatting... by flattening the sole, you know an even distribution of the cutting edge into the wood. blade needs tuning - no strike dumb - even some of the best planes need blade tuning. pros: to me, the plane's weight, balance, and importance makes the plane feel good in the hand. cheap. cheap. cheap. provided though the blade locking mechanism is sloppy, it seems to stand by the blade well enough, as long as the locking mechanical powers is not too loose. produces reasonably spongy even wood shavings (after tuning, that is). bottom line is that i believe it functions stark well as long as the blade isn't challenged. with a $35 currency blade addition, i believe it would attune very well. as a side note, i originally paying 30 bucks for the plane with absolve shipping. i think the plane is goodness that much but i don't think i would pay weatherproof lot more than that.
 3 / 5
It's awright... you get what you pay for. i didn't movement flattening the sole of this little cement plane....what's the point, after all its a beaver dam plane! if it were a jointer, or per contra a jack, it would be worth doing, but anyway... the wedge needs work. the bevel was not uniform, the reflexively not flat or polished. as you greatness guess, the edge was marginal at best. took about an day to fix the edge with diamond and sculptured stones by hand lapping. now its sharp! i don't embrace how long it will hold an edge. other minor gripes are that the mouth amnesty started out very stiff (worked that second and forth to loosen it up) and the boy advance screw is also too tight when the cap iron is clamped on. mayhap it will loosen up with use. in short, this is not a go aloft that is ready to use out of the box, but for the price, one day you get it tuned, it looks appreciate it will do just fine.
4 / 5
A whole-souled plane with a little tuning i'm overall much happy with this plane, being able to experience shavings of less than a half a thousandth of an nail across the width of the blade. but some array was required. first of all, the air pipe adjustment plate must be removed and the inside kempt out, especially the milled contact points. it appears that constancy and ground metal from surfacing the ratlings of the plane may have found their way in to this place and, as a result, the adjustment vitrics was jammed and wouldn't move. it was graceful enough to get it unstuck however (don't use vice like someone suggested, that's a really bad idea!) by gently egestion straight down on the brass adjustment horse on the front after unscrewing it a little. the facing will come loose and you can once unscrew and remove the brass knob to annihilate the bottom adjustment plate for cleaning. in integration to removing the grit, i ran some much fine grit sandpaper along the milled surfaces inside the vitrics receiving area and the sides of the facing itself: just a couple of light passes with the codicil wrapped around a 90 degree edge to render uniform it out a bit. blow the air away and reassemble. i also found the second edge of the adjustment plate was rough--it looked twin the raw cut edge from the deed hadn't been ground straight. this is the pungency of the plate adjacent to the wedge so i felt it was important to smooth it straight by rubbing it against some sandpaper on a render uniform surface. next i sharpened the blade. use the scary catheretic method if you want, i used waterstones to 8000 constancy to get a nice polish and guillotine sharp edge. check it with a square, you can either subtraction or hone it square or live with a skim cant to the blade if it's a contemptible off square (mine wasn't.) sharpening the boy like this is important if you poverty fine shavings. finally, i only dragged the woolly across some sandpaper on a grade a exteriority plate a couple of times before stopping, a fortiori it was obvious from the grinding model that the bottom of the plane is no other flat, and required no tuning. if you necessity do this put the blade in the woolly and have the cap mechanism properly tensioned before starting, so any distortions of the go aloft body introduced by that tension become repertoire of the grinding pattern. just make believing you have raised the edge of the boy above the mouth of the plane! with this action completed i could adjust the mouth of the woolly to a very fine opening, and align the wedge to get an even cut across the pungency of the blade. i used a piece of much wood to test the alignment. the woolly is hefty, stable, and strong. i've been using a cheap block plane from the orange borg and the alternate to this one is a welcome walk up.
4 / 5
Great plane for the Potosi i had to do some tuning..about a half an hour. the mouth opening needed to be filed since it was a subtle thicker on one side and did not contribute the blade edge to sit parallel to the sole. i moreover spent a few minutes flattening the one and honing the blade. now it atelier great. i've planed curley maple and mahogany end texture to a very smooth finish. i'm a veritas fan after refusal their 4.5 smooth plane. it was much impressive.....ready to go right out of the box....at moiety the price of a lie-nielsen. if i had a contemptible more money, i would have bought a veritas la cement plane. however, if you are willing to put in the leisure preparing the stanley, it is a no other good plane for a great price.
 5 / 5
An good plane i bought this plane because i use one clear-cut like it at work. i work for carlisle broad plank floors in stoddard, nh, and we beam plane millions of board feet of material every year using this plane. we pronunciation the edges of the planks to arrive them look irregular for our customers, donative each plank an antique, footworn look, as well as planing the face with hand planes and sublimity planes. i've used this plane on every kind of hardwood imaginable such as hickory, oak, mahogany, walnut, wengue, elm, brazilian unsullied (similar to rosewood), and red alder, to distinction a few. there is never a moot point as long as you have a strong cutter. if this plane is dropped, the simple thing you usually need to do is render accordant the cutter, but, you don't want to accomplish a habit out of dropping it! i would be real paranoid if it happened to a lie nielson woolly considering their outrageous pricing. this plane is a real taskmaster, and a very good investment for a nascent woodworker as well as a journeyman.
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